New Ho King

A new touch at an old Cantonese restaurant: a Brita water filter pitcher brought to the table the moment you mention water. With this introduction, we're not surprised to find a light touch in the kitchen and a canny hand buying the groceries. When was the last time you ordered classic chow mein? This is the place to revisit the dish that might have been your first encounter with chinese food. If they're in season, order the baby leeks, stir-fried with beef, garlic, ginger, and black beans. Try chicken in a hot pot with stir fried greens. At the end, in the Cantonese tradition, they'll serve the daily sweet soup - try it, it balances the meal. Once, there was only one Chinatown in Toronto and the style of cooking was strictly Cantonese. Take your taste buds on a stroll down memory lane.~ Sara Waxman.